Paris: Jackie’s 50 Things to Eat Before You Die

Escalope de foie gras chaud à ma façon at La Fontaine de Mars

Affogato at Pozzetto

Oeufs de poule mollets roulés à la mie de pain, toasts de beurre truffé at Le Violin d’Ingres

It is a little crazy to think that around this time last year, I was leaving San Francisco and developed my own list of 100 Things in San Francisco to Eat Before You Die. This past year in Paris has flown by and I’ve done so much (understatement of the year). I still can’t believe that this is my last week as a true Parisian.

Éclairs at L’Éclair de Génie

While I cannot claim to be an expert on the crème de la crème of the food scene in Paris, I thought I would compile my own list of my favorite things in the City of Light. I believe that there is SO much good food still out there; alas, I can only vouch for the things that I’ve personally eaten.

Truffle risotto at Dans Les Landes

I wish I lived here long enough to develop 100 things to eat before you die, but I guess you will just have to settle for 50. You’ll notice that some restaurants have multiple dishes listed because they just simply excel at gastronomy. One dish is not enough to list. Also, you’ll probably notice that there are a lot of desserts on the list. What can I say? No one can beat the French when it comes to pastries and dessert. In no particular order, I present to you:

Jackie’s 50 Things to Eat Before You Die (Paris Edition)

1. Escalope de foie gras chaud à ma façon at La Fontaine de Mars (pan-seared foie gras with pears)
2. Oeufs au Madiran façon meurette at La Fontaine de Mars (eggs baked with bacon, shallots and a red wine reduction sauce)
3. Financier at Le Moulin de Rosa (32 rue de Turenne)
4. Pavé de cabillaud at Les Cocottes
5. Langoustine ravioli at Les Cocottes
6. La fabuleuse tarte au chocolat de Christian Constant at Les Cocottes
7. Any crêpe with salted caramel at Breizh Café
8. Kakemiso udon at Sanukiya
9. Croissant at La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac
10. Affogato at Pozzetto (fior di latte gelato is amazing!)
11. Foie gras royale at Frenchie
12. Grand Marnier soufflé at Joséphine Chez Dumonet
13. Lemon or vanilla macaron at Ladurée (I’m not a fan of the other flavors)
14. French toast at Ladurée
15. Carnard à l’orange at Le Petit Carnard
16. Mango passion caramels at Jacques Genin
17. Hot chocolate at Jacques Genin
18. Fallafel at L’As du Fallafel
19. Salted caramel macaron at Carette (I’m not a fan of the other flavors)
20. Brunch at Bobby & Bobette
21. Ground pork noodles in miso soup (炸酱面) at Happy Nouilles
22. Madeleines at Blé Sucré
23. Bakesale Betty, fried chicken sandwich at Verjus (lunch only)
24. Any cocktail at Experimental Cocktail Club
25. Ice cream macarons at Martine Lambert (my personal favorite is vanilla)
26. Oeufs de poule mollets roulés à la mie de pain, toasts de beurre truffé at Le Violin d’Ingres
27. Truffle risotto at Dans Les Landes
28. Fish and chips at Dans Les Landes
29. Any ice cream flavor at Berthillon
30. Profiteroles at Café Constant
31. Tarte fine aux pommes at Café Constant
32. Kimchi with pork and tofu at Dawa (5 rue Humblot)
33. Salted caramel éclair at L’Éclair de Génie
34. Lunch at Soul Kitchen (menu changes daily)
35. Lemon meringue tart at Le Loir dans la Théière
36. Ratatouille at Chez Janou
37. Chocolate mousse at Chez Janou
38. Egg custard tart/pastel de nata at Comme à Lisbonne
39. Escargots at Benoit
40. Mille-feuille at Benoit
41. Coco Meurette at Eggs & Co.
42. Crème brûlée at La Coupole
43. Lunch at Pierre Sang Boyer (menu changes daily)
44. Sashimi at Foujita 2 (7 rue du 29 juillet)
45. Steak tartare at Ma Bourgogne
46. Coffee from Coutume Café
47. Apple panna cotta at Les Papilles (seasonal)
48. Salad at Les Fabricants (giant filling salads for around 10 euro)
49. Strawberry shortcake at Aki Boulanger (Japanese-style bakery)
50. Karaage at Kunitoraya (has nice hints of ginger to it)

I’m feeling really lucky because last year I talked about how it had always been my dream to live in San Francisco. Another one of my dreams has been to live in Paris. I am a huge Francophile and Paris has always been my favorite city. I’m happy to say that it still is my favorite city, but I’m extremely sad to leave. I have a feeling this won’t be my last trip. In the mean time, I’m hoping this list will keep you very busy. Bon appétit!

Ice cream macarons and ice cream from Martine Lambert

Salad at Les Fabricants

Pear, salted caramel and Chantilly cream crêpe at Breizh Café

Vive la France!

Paris: Pierre Sang Boyer

Pierre Sang laying the final touches on dessert (photo by: Amy-Actually.com)

I know that I talked about Frenchie being my best meal in Paris, but Pierre Sang Boyer (55 rue Oberkampf) gives Gregory Marchand a run for his money. How good is Pierre Sang? I ate there twice in one week.

First Meal at Pierre Sang

Beautiful Plating

Diane was kind enough to introduce Pierre Sang to me. The restaurant does not take any reservations (they don’t even have a phone line) and has mostly counter seating with a few tables upstairs as well as downstairs. I would definitely opt for arriving early and grabbing a seat at the counter to watch the magic unfold.

It is practically lunch and a show

The menu changes daily and is based completely on whatever local produce the chef is inspired by. For lunch, diners can choose the “simple” (2 courses), “initial” (3 courses) or “freestyle” (4 courses + cheese). Freestyle is the way to go. For 35 euro, you can watch Chef Sang unveil his culinary genius before your eyes. Lunch was so amazing that I had to take Amy (click to read her review) back the same week.

First course: Razor clams marinated in red wine with asparagus, anise, pickled onions and olives

Second course: Smoked haddock with grapefruit rinds, cauliflower, shaved carrots, salsify, served with lemon sauce and herb foam

Third course: Pork in red wine reduction served atop wild rice with napa cabbage, alongside mushrooms, fried garlic, and shaved turnip

Cheese course: Cheese served with a coconut and yogurt cream sprinkled with white chocolate shavings and cracked black pepper

Dessert: Opera cake with chocolate and coffee layers served in pineapple sauce with peas marinated in cardamom and tarragon, topped with a macaron and sliced strawberry

Paris: Les Papilles

Les Papilles

One of Amy and my old co-workers highly recommended Les Papilles (30 rue Gay Lussac) so Amy was quick to make dinner reservations. I am so glad we went because Les Papilles is a hidden gem in the 5th arrondissement. For just 35 euro, you get a beautiful four-course dinner with big portions and a lively atmosphere. The restaurant is also a wine cellar with all the bottles lined up against the wall with prices. You can browse the collection and pick the bottle of wine you want to accompany dinner.

Les Papilles: Carrot Soup

Every night, Les Papilles has a set menu with soup, main course, cheese and dessert. Our first course was a cream and carrot soup with fresh carrots, bacon, croutons, coriander, chives and curry powder. I loved how each of us got our own bowl and it was self-serve. The family-style of food really added to the warm and homey atmosphere. While the soup base did not have a strong carrot taste, I liked how it had a great mix of textures with the croutons and bacon.

Les Papilles: Beef Pot Roast

The meat was so tender

Our main dish was beef pot roast cooked in red wine with baby potatoes, carrots, peas, garlic and thyme. Our waiter told us that they cook the beef all night. I believed him because I could not believe how tender and easily the meat fell apart when I gently touched my fork to it.

Les Papilles: Blue Cheese and Apple Panna Cotta

Switzerland: Lausanne and Audemars Piguet Factory Visit

Audemars Piguet Manufacturing Factory in Vallée de Joux

Earlier this week, I had a class field trip to Lausanne to visit Audemars Piguet watch manufacturing factory. It was my first time in Switzerland and a very short trip (less than 24 hours), but it was such an honor to actually visit one of the premier watch manufacturers.

Lausanne: View from my Hotel

Lausanne: Café de L’Évêché

My classmates and I had an authentic fondue dinner at Café de L’Évêché. As soon as you stepped into the restaurant, your olfactory senses were overwhelmed with the distinct smell of stinky cheese. Despite the way it smelled, it was delicious (and extremely filling) and so nice to have real fondue with unpasteurized cheese (an impossible feat in the United States). I desperately needed some meat to balance out all the cheese, bread and potatoes. My friend and I split a ribeye steak, which was also perfectly seasoned Florentine style– just salt and pepper. If you only have one night in Lausanne, I would definitely recommend Café de L’Évêché for a reasonably priced dinner.

The next morning we drove to the Vallée de Joux, which was a real treat for me because I felt like I was visiting a historical site. Earlier in the school year, I had written a 25-page research paper on the luxury watch industry so I learned all about the history of Swiss watches. The Vallée de Joux is up in the Jura mountains and is the birthplace of Swiss horology. The original inhabitants were mostly farmers, who tended to their crops and livestock. In the 19^th century, during the harsh winter months, these farmers were cut off from civilization and stuck indoors. Due to their religion, staunch Protestantism, idleness was frowned upon. In the winter, men worked on wooden puzzles and toys. Over time, their handiwork would focus on clock mechanisms and finally, watches. When spring arrived, they would travel back into the main towns to sell their work.

I was not allowed to take photos inside the factory, but it was incredible to watch these experts work with such tiny pieces of metal to form beautiful timepieces. All day, they have to look through a magnifying glass to do their work. I feel like I’d go blind after a day. Some of the high-end watches require 1,000 man-hours! On top of visiting the factory, we also got a private meeting with the CEO of Audemars Piguet, Francois-Henry Bennahmias. It has been incredible the type of access to luxury we’ve received by being students of ESSEC’s MBA in International Luxury Brand Management.

I can not wait to visit Switzerland again. Even though my time was short, I was completely captivated by the charm of Lausanne and how beautiful it is. There is still so much of the country that I want to see and hope that I have a chance to visit Zurich, Geneva or Lugano soon.

Lausanne at Night

Paris Croissant Crawl

My amazing friend Amy is visiting this week! Given that she loves food as much as I do, she was the perfect partner in crime for a croissant crawl. Ever since reading David Lebovitz’s “Paris’s Best Croissants” in Travel + Leisure, I have been wanting to judge all of those boulangeries for myself. Amy and I did even better by trying SEVEN croissants (take that, David!) from different bakeries across town with a very specific mission– find the best croissant in Paris.

Ronde Des Pains: Croissant for 1 euro

We started at my local bakery on Rue Cler, Ronde Des Pains (45 Rue Cler). We hungrily ate our first croissant of the day. I noticed that the croissant was not very dark, but it was still crispy and doughy inside without feeling too heavy.

Pain et Chocolat

Pain et Chocolat: Croissant for 1.20 euro

Next, we walked a couple blocks to Pain et Chocolat (16 Avenue de La Motte Picquet). I always loved the name of the café – Bread and Chocolate – but I had never actually stepped inside.We were lured inside by the croissants on display in the window, which were significantly darker than the one we devoured at Ronde Des Pains. After talking with a staff member, we learned that they roll all the dough overnight and bake it in their ovens downstairs. It’s good to know that even a café is willing to bake their own pastries (one would hope with the “bread” being in the name). Pain et Chocolat’s croissant was definitely crispier (probably due to the longer baking) and less doughy, but I thought it was really buttery and heavy. I had butter all over my hand as I ripped the croissant into pieces.

Blé Sucré: Croissant for 1.2 euro; Four Madeleines for 3.4 euro

We took the Métro all the way across town to Blé Sucré (7 Rue Antoine Vollon). I was a little embarrassed to admit to Amy that I had never really explored the 12th arrondissement of Paris before. We found an adorable store front overlooking the Square Armand Trousseau. These croissants were massive, much wider and taller than I had ever seen before. I had read all the online reviews that raved about their madeleines (people, I take my food research seriously) and so we also bought a four-pack of those petite cakes. Blé Sucré’s croissants were impressive. Out of all of the croissants, it was the flakiest and surprisingly had a sweet hint to it. We tried to decipher if some sugar was lightly coating the croissant or if the batter itself was sweet.

I know this is a croissant review, but I have to take a brief moment to review their madeleines. Those bad boys are the most delicious madeleines that I have ever tasted in my entire life. They are very light and fluffy and don’t have an almond taste (unlike the ones you normally find in the U.S.). The absolute clincher was the layer of sugar coating one side of the madeleine. I’m guessing that it has to be some sort of diluted sugar frosting because it actually wasn’t that sweet. BUT, that little bit of frosting added an audible crunch to the madeleine, giving some delightful texture to the moist and soft cake. The madeleines are only sold in a four pack, but you should just buy them. Trust me. You will eat them all.

La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac: Croissant for 1 euro

After Blé Sucré, Amy and I walked ten minutes to La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac (24 Rue Paul Bert). His store has some beautiful pastries and I especially loved the presentation of his lemon meringue tart. Cyril Lignac’s croissant seemed like the best croissant that was well-rounded. The ends were super crispy and the middle section was not too doughy. It was buttery but still very light at the same time. I wish I had some fleur de sel in my back pocket because just a sprinkling of fresh sea salt would have made it the perfect croissant.

28 Boulangerie: Croissant for 1 euro

Amy and I were suffering from a croissant coma, but we powered through because I wanted to go to Le Moulin de Rosa (32 Rue de Turenne). Christophe had taken me to that boulangerie before and I remember thinking the croissant was good. In dire need of some digestion help, we happily walked the 30 minutes to the Marais. While walking to Le Moulin de Rosa, we passed by 28 Boulangerie (28 Boulevard Beaumarchais) and smelled the most amazing baked bread. Our pit stop did not lead to any viennoiserie revelations. It was a solid croissant but really nothing to write home about.

Le Moulin de Rosa: Croissant for 1.1 euro; Financier for 1.2 euro

Finally, we arrived at our last stop, Le Moulin de Rosa. It was flaky, buttery and much better than 28 Boulangerie, but it definitely was not the best. I had to also order a financier because they make the best financiers. You can actually taste the almonds and there are trace amounts of ground almond and vanilla bean baked in.

Final Verdict: For me, it was a tie between La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac and Blé Sucré. I think Cyril Lignac has the best classic croissant. It seemed like the perfect combination of all of the seven croissants we tried. It had fantastic crispiness and flakiness while not being too overwhelming and heavy. If you want to try a croissant with a slight twist, Blé Sucré’s croissants really have a certain sweetness to them. Amy’s favorite croissant of the day was from Blé Sucré. The journey to Blé Sucré would be worth it just for the madeleines. I’m already plotting my next trip to the 12th arrondissement.

Do you have a favorite croissant in Paris? Please do share! I’d love to discover more boulangeries!

Paris’ Montmartre: Bobby and Bobette, Soul Kitchen, Le Refuge des Fondus, and Le Petit Carnard

Brunch at Bobby and Bobette: Christophe Wearing my New Sunglasses, Caramel Crème Brûlée, Eggs Benedict and Fresh Viennoiseries

I never hang out in Montmartre, but in the past week, I ate at four different restaurants in the neighborhood. It was great to explore a new arrondissement and learn that there really is more to Montmartre than just the Moulin Rouge and Sacré-Coeur.

Christophe (by the way, he just redid his website!) took me to brunch at Bobby & Bobette (14 rue Houdon). It was a charming restaurant with the absolute nicest staff. On Saturday, they have brunch for 23 euro (which is actually a great deal in Paris) and you get a hot drink, LARGE glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, scrambled egg/Eggs Benedict, bacon/smoked salmon, potatoes, a pastry, baguette, AND DESSERT. Talk about a mountain of food. I really enjoyed my Eggs Benedict because the hollandaise sauce was light and lemony. I was so full that they actually packed my dessert to-go. I would gladly return to Bobby & Bobette any day and I really want to try their hamburger next time.

Soul Kitchen

Homemade Jams, Raspberry Fromage Blanc, Cute Pottery for Sale, Fresh Juices, Vegetable Couscous and Duck Tarte

My friends were visiting me from the U.S. this week so we headed to Montmartre to check out the Sacré-Coeur. After a long day of exploring Montmartre and climbing up and down the hill twice, my friend had read about Soul Kitchen (33 rue Lamarck). It sounds like it should be Southern food, but it’s actually a coffee shop serving incredibly fresh and healthy food. The restaurant was opened by two sisters and I fell absolutely in love with the place. Everything was adorable– from the cute plates to the multitude of children’s board games. The menu changes every day and for 12.50 euro, you get a small salad, main dish and dessert. We enjoyed our vegetable couscous, spinach soup with goat cheese and mushroom tartine, and my duck and roasted vegetables tarte (similar to a quiche).

Cheese and Meat Fondue at Le Refuge des Fondus

Yes, they do serve your wine in a baby bottle

If you live in Paris, I feel like you have to visit Le Refuge des Fondus (17 rue des Trois Frères) because it is such an experience. In a very small room, there are two very long communal tables. These tables are so tight that you actually have to walk on the tabletop to sit down. You only have two choices: oil fondue with beef and potatoes or cheese fondue with bread (or, you can order both). Your meal automatically comes with an apéritif and a bottle of either red or white wine, served in a baby bottle. While not the best food in the entire world, it’s definitely a lively place and worth checking out. We were definitely bigger fans of the cheese fondue and white wine (I seriously would not advise getting the red wine). For the cheese fondue and alcohol, it’s 21 euro per person and the beef was an extra 9 euro (flat rate). Try to make reservations beforehand so that you’re not waiting outside forever.

Le Petit Carnard

If you love to eat duck, then Le Petit Carnard (19 Rue Henry Monnier) is the place for you! They literally have all things duck, ranging from foie gras to duck tartare. It’s a tiny restaurant so you have to have reservations (unless you don’t mind eating past 10pm). We had a really interesting “Mother Gaud” salad, which had gizzards glazed with raspberry vinaigrette, dried duck breast stuffed with foie gras, croutons and a poached egg. My favorite main dish was the carnard à l’orange. I would definitely recommend the dark meat over the duck breast. I thought my duck aiguillettes were a little too tough and dry– really nothing spectacular. I’d go back for the duck foie gras and duck à l’orange.

What a wonderful week. They were my first visitors from the U.S. and I had such an amazing time showing them around the city and also trying new restaurants. I’ll end this blog post with a photo from the Sacré-Coeur on a rare sunny and actually warm day!

My wonderful friends and I at the Sacré-Coeur